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To describe the town I stayed is difficult: it's a little like some of the ramshackle beach towns I spent time at in Spain mixed with a heaping dose of schlock and flagrant tourist exploitation. It was wonderful.
My hotel room looked out over the main downtown area and the Wisla Lagoon. Mornings were fairly peaceful, but things got rowdy in the evening, with a pan flute band piping happily along to the background of "El Condor Pasa" or "Unchained Melody". They played endlessly every afternoon from 2 to 8, and I actually loved it. Here's a short video from my window with the flutes in the background.
My day was: wake up, apply lotions and unguents, avoid the breakfast buffet, hit the beach, make my way through 'War and Peace', eat lunch, go back to the beach, go back to the hotel, read and fall asleep.
On Saturday night, I went for a long walk at midnight along the stretch of beach that leads ultimately to Kaliningrad. At first I walked past endless groups of Polish kids farting around on the beach, everybody very friendly and tame. I spent about an hour winding down into the silence and lay down on my back, feet in the water, the tide getting into my pants every now and then. Here, at the very tip of the northwest of Poland, I was lying down, looking up and the sky and wondering if I had found what I came looking for. And what was I there for anyway? Tide, Sky, Horizon, Waves. The passive gorgeousness of a north Baltic night and a wandering American lying down see it unfold. I observed it and was part of it too. The Mystery surrounded me.
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